There are two Maldives: one for the tourists and one for the local Maldivians who work – mostly – for the visitors. I had the great good fortune to be attached to the second – spending 10 days with the wonderful people at Maldives National University. Male, where MNU has its main campus, is a congested and cramped city crammed onto a tiny island. It is ringed with jetties ferrying people to islands in every direction – including the airport on the island minutes away. I don’t care if I ever get to one of the resorts – the real Maldives calls me back.